|
|
|
Where the Action Is
by Leslee Jaquette
Enjoying Seattle’s boating hot spots
Print This Article
|
Email This Article
A craving for fresh oysters had obsessed the crew since we traversed Seattle’s Hiram M. Chittenden Locks. As we continued east through the Ship Canal toward Lake Union on our mini-cruise, I sensed mutiny if we didn’t get moored soon at Chandler’s Cove.
Within minutes of setting out the fenders and securing the lines, our entourage of hungry, thirsty boaters descended on Chandler’s Crabhouse & Fresh Fish Market for -- you guessed it -- fresh oysters and a pint of Alaskan Amber. After the first oyster (it’s free) we each consumed a half-dozen more of these $1.25 specials during Happy Hour. Afterward, we took off to investigate Chandler’s Cove’s many other attractions -- including more restaurants, yacht brokerages, boater-oriented shops and a museum.
All this was a mere prelude to the next day’s mighty and impressive brunch -- a necessary tradition before anchoring in Union Bay for a University of Washington Husky football game.
Chandler’s Cove is just one of Seattle’s many inviting mini boating destinations. Here, we explored some of the Emerald City’s most attractive, lively and welcoming boater hangouts.
Whether you cruise to Seattle from far away or just power up from the South Sound, this Northwest metropolis offers many great year-round hot spots. These mini-destinations are great places for boaters to “do the town,” shop or simply enjoy some of the best dining experiences this region has to offer.
Chandler’s Cove
Chandler’s Cove Marina, with 19 guest slips ranging up to 95 feet, is the easiest moorage from which to gain access to Lake Union’s many waterfront restaurants, shops and yacht brokerages.
For those who crave seafood, the choices are many. At Chandler’s Crabhouse boaters can indulge beyond oysters into a fishy universe of popcorn shrimp and whiskeyed crab soup -- or even wrestle a giant Tasmanian crab (the world’s heaviest crab) into submission.
Next door, Duke’s Lake Union Chowderhouse specializes in pre-dinner snacks such as “Dangerously Killer Shrimp,” “Jump in Your Mouth Crayfish Chowder” and blackened Alaskan wild king salmon fingers. On the outdoor patio, boaters can enjoy a view of the dock scene, sipping a James “Duke” Bond martini while gearing up for a bowl of Dungeness crab and bourbon chowder.
After this first round of foraging, boaters can stretch their sea legs as they walk the docks for a bit of shopping at Crossings Boutique or luxuriate at The Salon & Day Spa. Most boaters love to browse the displays and exhibits at the free Puget Sound Maritime Museum.
Brokers at any of a dozen area yacht sales facilities are happy to show off their fleet. Meanwhile, visitors in need of some exercise can rent a canoe or kayak at Moss Bay Canoe, Kayak & Sailing Center, near T.G.I.Fridays. Adjacent to the moorage, the Center for Wooden Boats attracts visitors interested in viewing boats or even renting a rowing or sailing dinghy for a spin on the lake.
Within walking distance of Chandler’s Cove, visiting boaters will find another huge assortment of restaurants and many more activities to enjoy. Franco’s Hidden Harbor is famous for its Scandinavian menu including herring, gravlax, fiskepudding (cod mousse) and game meats -- such as reindeer, elk and venison. From here, it is only a half-mile or so stroll to the Seattle Center, the Imax Theater and Paul Allen’s weird and wonderful Experience Music Project.
On the north end of Lake Union, Ivar’s Indian Salmon House invites boaters to moor at either its 70 foot dock or 120-foot-long barge. A Seattle standard for decades, the restaurant consistently dishes out great views of the city skyline and a Sunday brunch that usually satisfies patrons for the rest of the day.
For those in search of something other than seafood, the Aqua Verde Café & Paddle Club off Boat Street promises authentic Mexican food -- ordered right off a chalkboard menu above the counter.
Bell Harbor
In the heart of Seattle, the 35 slip Bell Harbor Marina acts as “boating central” for downtown dining, shopping, sightseeing and sporting events. According to marina operations coordinator Todd Tyson, “The first thing visiting boaters do is head straight for the Pike Place Market. Their next favorite stops are the Seattle Center, Pioneer Square and Safeco Field sporting events.”
Built only a few years ago, Bell Harbor maintains all its slips exclusively for visiting boaters. Due to its “location, location, location,” Tyson recommends boaters always phone, fax or e-mail ahead for reservations.
Many boaters immediately hunker down at Anthony’s Home Port restaurant, adjacent to the marina. Some jump on the trolley, while others in need of exercise walk the bustling waterfront, stopping at the Seattle Aquarium, Ye Olde Curiosity Shop or Seattle Fudge, home of sinfully rich fudge and saltwater taffy.
After climbing the stairs (or taking the elevator) up to the Market, it is easy to expand an exploration up to Seattle’s downtown core -- taking in Westlake Mall and the relatively new, trendy Pacific Place. From here, visitors often jump on the bus for a free ride south to Pioneer Square, Safeco Field and the Exhibition Center. Located across from the field, Pyramid Brewery & AleHouse provides a friendly watering hole from which to rev up for the walk or trolley ride back to Bell Harbor.
Although there are dozens of excellent cafés, delis and restaurants within a pleasant stroll of the marina, the newest and trendiest of the lot is the Six * Seven Restaurant & Lounge at the nearby Edgewater Hotel. Opened in June, the hotel restaurant (the name relates to its location on Pier 67) features an outdoor deck with seating at 13 tables.
Six * Seven offers an intriguing menu described as “Northwest cuisine with Asian influences.” Tom Toyana serves up a satisfying selection of sushi, sashimi and maki rolls, while executive chef Kevin Rohr’s signature grilled Alaskan halibut hits the spot with the seafood crowd.
Six * Seven manager Derek Young said, “While boaters have always loved to “buzz” the Edgewater, now they are attracted to the deck, sushi bar and incredible waterfront views.”
Shilshole
Shilshole Bay Marina -- with its massive girth, 1,500 slips and abundant guest boat moorage -- is the patriarch of Seattle boaters’ hot spots.
Due for a redesign in the next decade, the port facilities appear a bit faded, but Charlie’s at Shilshole and the Little Pebble Bar still offer tasty comfort fare and beverages at reasonable prices. Charlie’s is one of the few places around that still builds an impressive three-layer, batter-dipped Monte Cristo sandwich. On weekends, Charlie’s breakfast buffet remains a favorite with boaters.
Just a short walk south from the guest pier, visitors have to make some hard choices. Should they save their appetites (and pocketbooks) for fine dining at Anthony’s Home Port or stop in upstairs at Ray’s Café for Happy Hour half-price appetizers, beer and wine specials? Many boaters not only appreciate Ray’s bargains, they adore wrapping up in blankets on the deck on cool afternoons and watching boats head in and out of the Ballard Locks. Downstairs, Ray’s Boathouse offers fine dining.
For those with kids or grandchildren, Azteca Mexican Restaurant next to Ray’s promises equally elegant views of the canal and Sound -- and it serves “grande platos” of food.
In the same short block, boaters have the choice of shopping at West Marine or Admiralty Marine, a consignment shop with lots of great stuff -- including shipshape anchors, life jackets and charts.
The Purple Cow Espresso attracts the coffee, juice and homemade soup crowd. On the other hand, Gordo’s, a Shilshole tradition for decades, makes no attempt at ambiance or service. Its claims to fame are juicy burgers, fresh cod sandwiches, malts and extra-large orders of fries.
On the opposite end of Shilshole, to the north, Little Coney tempts passersby with soft ice cream cones and chili cheese fries -- and it offers fresh bait for anglers. To the north of Little Coney, boaters will find the public launch, fishing pier and Golden Gardens Park. Here, boaters can exercise their kids and dogs, build sandcastles and bonfires or simply enjoy the beauty of the sun setting behind the Olympic Mountains.
For those interested in a pleasant half-mile walk, marina visitors should consider ambling up Seaview Avenue toward Ballard to visit the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks and several fun eateries.
Hiram’s at the Locks offers upscale dining similar to Ray’s and Anthony’s, and the Baithouse Café along the canal has its own unique character. From the street, people gain access to the canal side of the café from a dingy stairwell. Boaters, however, are invited to tie up at the café’s 60 feet of dock space to purchase bait or indulge in delicious fare, such as an open-faced crab melt or a crab Caesar salad.
Another short block or so toward Ballard, boaters are tempted to sample outrageous fish and chips, chowders and seafood at both Totem House Seafood & Chowder and the Lockspot, adjacent to the Locks. The Totem House regularly earns accolades in city surveys for serving Seattle’s “best fish and chips.”
The Lockspot, although lesser known, is a local favorite. One regular explained that the Lockspot is great because the chef uses the freshest cod -- and lots of spices. The fish and chips are breaded with Japanese panko breading. The salmon chowder is, also, to die for (in my opinion).
Of course, no visit to Shilshole is complete without a trip to the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks and Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Gardens. Boaters become mesmerized watching other boaters “lock through.” It is also fun to view the salmon ladder (which allows fish to avoid the locks) and to tour the gardens, which, due to the protected marine environment, maintain their own unique microclimate.
Fishermen’s Terminal
Although Fishermen’s Terminal on Salmon Bay offers no overnight moorage, visitors are invited to tie up for three hours at the 125 foot float to walk the working docks, shop and dine at any of four eateries. Home of the Northwest fishing fleet, the guest dock is located in front of Chinook’s at Salmon Bay. Chinook’s is known for its lavish Sunday brunch and appetizers such as pan-seared crispy oysters and fried Manila clams.
Also operated by Anthony’s Home Port, Little Chinook’s welcomes boaters to order take-out lingcod and chips or tempura seafood. Picnic tables in the central Fishermen’s Center Plaza -- dominated by a 30 foot bronze commemorative statue -- serve as comfortable spots to snack and watch fishermen tending nets or scrubbing boats. The High Liner Pub and Salmon Bay Café offer further fantastic fare to boaters exploring the terminal.
Those who want to cook their own seafood meal aboard will enjoy shopping at the Wild Salmon Seafood Market, Here, you can purchase fresh fish, oysters and clams straight off the boats. Fishionado Gallery, with its eclectic mix of marine-related art, gifts and jewelry, offers shoppers some first-class fun -- as does the F.K. Kirsten pipe shop, with its walk-in humidor.
Elliott Bay
Shilshole’s hefty younger brother is the 1,200 slip Elliott Bay Marina. Located across the bay from downtown Seattle, this handsome marina with 60 guest slips offers boaters a quiet, comfortable, upscale destination.
Just a hair off the beaten path, Elliott Bay invites visitors to relax and revel in the marina scene before heading off to savor city delights. To make a jaunt downtown easy, the marina, in conjunction with downtown hotels, provides free limousine service to and from the marina starting at 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
For those who opt to wine and dine at Elliott Bay Marina, the choices are fairly straightforward. Maggie Bluffs provides a casual setting with outdoor patio seating for boaters looking for “power food” -- including the hot Dungeness crab sandwich or the Magnolia chili bowl.
Maggie’s is also known for rich desserts such as the Barrett Street Chocolate Explosion, a fudgy caramel and pecan concoction on a chocolate crust. Another “hope you saved room for this” treat is the shipwreck sundae, which is constructed from layers of ice cream and chocolate peanut butter sauce, whipped cream, Spanish peanuts and a wedge of chocolate brownie pie.
Upstairs from Maggie’s, the Palisades invites boaters in for special-occasion dining. Manager Ian Whiting noted that many visiting boaters enjoy the chef’s signature dish: cedar-planked roasted halibut stuffed with Dungeness crab and Macadamia nuts.
The views and service are splendid at this fine dining establishment graced with fascinating saltwater ponds that are inhabited by “whatever comes in from the Sound,” Whiting said. “At times, the pond has played home to a wolf eel, steelhead and coho salmon.”
Hang at the Hot Spots
While we mentioned many of our own favorite Seattle area boating hot spots, there are truly far too many to cover all of them here. Enjoy your own exploration of this remarkable urban cruising playground, and you will no doubt discover your own favorite hot spots.
|
This article first appeared in the January 1, 2002 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
|
|
|
|
