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Rural Rendezvous
by John Lund
Seattleites and visiting boaters alike flock to the quaint burghs of Winslow, Eagle and Blakely harbors
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Most Seattle boaters are familiar with Bainbridge Island. Located just nine miles across Puget Sound, for decades, Bainbridge has been a popular destination and stop for an afternoon cruise when time is short. But visiting boaters from more distant ports may want to consider it as an alternative to the busy Port of Seattle across the water.
First-time visitors will be enchanted with the small town of Winslow, which is quickly being gentrified by Seattleites who choose to commute to a quieter lifestyle, each day, aboard the ferry Walla Walla. Boaters who want to spend a day shopping in town, but don’t want the hassle of parking the boat in an urban setting, can do the same.
It is no wonder that Bainbridge is becoming a bedroom community for the city -- it is a gorgeous place. With the Seattle cityscape in the not-too-distant view, the island retains its rural atmosphere, yet allows for the convenience of the big city.
Just a mile south is Blakely Harbor, a peaceful anchorage minutes from the bustle. However, Blakely Harbor has its own story to tell, tied as it is to Northwest history and its earliest development as a seaport and milltown, when it was known as Port Blakely. Today, only some pilings and a slag heap tell of what once was in the 1800s.
Eagle Harbor
The most useful chart for navigating the region around Bainbridge Island is chart 18449. Note that there is a shoal that extends south, off Wing Point. If you are coming from the north, do not turn in until you have rounded nun buoy No. 2, keeping it to starboard.
Further to the south, there is a beacon marking Tyee Shoal, which the ferry uses to navigate. Give way to the ferry, as it has the right of way. Markers lead the way into the harbor. The “Red, Right, Returning” rule applies.
Part of the reason Eagle Harbor is such a busy boater’s destination is the fact that Queen City, Meydenbauer Bay and Seattle yacht clubs all have outstations here. Their members tend to fill their allotted space on any sunny weekend; however, there are often spaces to be found at the marinas using vacated slips, and there is good anchorage found for boats 30 to 45 feet. Anchorage in the harbor is restricted to three-days.
Note that there is no fuel station in Eagle Harbor -- the closest is at Elliott Bay. Be advised, too, that during our most recent Bainbridge visit, a Harbor Management Advisory Committee was implementing a harbor plan that may change boater use of the island’s harbor facilities in the near future.
Eagle Harbor Waterfront Park
The 300 foot long dock lining this park offers only 100 feet of moorage. Watch the depth at low tides. Despite the fact that there is no power or water and there is a two-day limit, this is a great place. The park, with its overhanging madronas, offers lots of activities for the crew, with playgrounds, picnic sites and tennis courts. And from the park there’s a pleasant walk along a footpath bordering the waterfront.
There are restrooms ashore, and a boat ramp runs parallel to the dock. Part of the dock is designated for dinghies for those wishing to venture to town from the anchorage area. At the dock, Bainbridge Boat Rentals has scuba equipment and kayak rentals. On our last trip, moorage here was 25 cents per foot on the honor system, which is a good deal. Get there early, as space is limited and there is no rafting.
Harbour Marina
There is limited moorage at Harbour Marina during the summer, but the staff will try to fit you in at owner-vacated slips. Call ahead to book (206-842-6502). The docks have 30 amp power and there are restrooms, showers, a laundry facility and a pumpout station.
The best thing about this marina is the English-style Harbour Pub, which is built on the former homestead of Amanda and Ambrose Crow, circa 1881. The pub offers beer, wine and great food on a patio deck that overlooks the busy harbor. It’s definitely a civilized way to spend a sunny afternoon. The pub is located about a 10-minute walk from the center of town and offers temporary moorage for those who wish to have lunch or dinner. Reserve a spot with wharfinger Jocelyne at (206) 842-6502.
Winslow Wharf Marina
Winslow Wharf Marina is centrally located two blocks from town and is the biggest and busiest in the area; however, there is often space available in unoccupied slips. It’s best to call the marina manager, David Lafave, at (206) 842-4202, or on VHF Channel 9, to check for available space.
Slips will accommodate vessels up to 50 feet. The docks have 20 and 30 amp power and there are restrooms, showers, a laundry facility, a pumpout station and a portable toilet pumpout nearby. The marina has a security gate and a restroom key that require a security deposit.
Nearby are some interesting shops and restaurants, including the Pegasus Coffee House and Gallery. Also close to the marina, The Chandlery has a good assortment of charts, books, equipment and hardware.
Eagle Harbor Marina
Located on the south side of the harbor, Eagle Harbor Marina has limited moorage available. Call (206) 842-4003 to confirm availability. The docks have 20, 30 and 50 amp power, restrooms, a laundry facility, showers and a pumpout station. It is a dinghy ride to town from here, as there are no restaurants or shopping in the vicinity.
Winslow
Boaters will find the small town of Winslow a most agreeable place to walk, browse, shop and hang out. It has an interesting mix of eclectic shops and creative townsfolk, for which the island has always been known, and newly arrived downtown Seattleites looking for a quieter country lifestyle. In the summer, throw in a large dollop of boaters and tourists, and you have a wonderful mix for interesting people-watching.
To recharge an empty food locker, you will find everything you need at the Thriftway grocery store at the Town & Country Mall in the heart of town. To make your walk more interesting, stop by the Visitors Center across from City Hall for a “Walkabout Map.”
Blakely Harbor
A mile south of the entrance to Eagle Harbor lies Blakely Harbor, a very pleasant anchorage more famous for what is no longer there than for what is.
If you had sailed into Blakely Harbor in the early 1880s, you would have been amazed to see a forest of masts from square-rigged ships waiting to take on lumber from an enormous steam belching mill -- the world’s largest at that time -- at the head of the bay. The north shore would have been lined with mill workers’ homes, which have been replaced by today’s upscale residences. Close to the north point was one of the Northwest’s biggest and best known shipbuilders, Hall Brothers’ Shipyard.
All that remains to tell of Port Blakely’s past are some rotting pilings and a slag pile under the mill’s blacksmith forge. This rich past has been recorded by historian Andrew Price Jr., author of Port Blakely: The Community Captain Renton Built. The book makes interesting reading, as you enjoy a spectacular sunset and Seattle views in peaceful Blakely Harbor.
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This article first appeared in the April 1, 1998 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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