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Twin Ports
by Phil Dauber
Historic Astoria and Ilwaco welcome boaters on the Columbia
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Just inside the mouth of the mighty Columbia River, two fascinating ports await boaters' exploration. On the Oregon side, Astoria is the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies, and it's the site of one of the finest maritime museums in the West.
The picturesque Washington fishing village of Ilwaco is on the other side of the river, offering many more diversions for visiting boaters. Within short distances of both towns are dozens of historic sites, lighthouses, museums, memorials and the wreckage of a four-masted sailing ship.
There is certainly a lot to see here -- and visiting boaters might also be surprised at the wide selection of marinas. Five are located on the Oregon side, and there's a huge 1,000-slip facility at the Port of Ilwaco, in Washington.
Still, the mouth of the Columbia River is well known for the challenges it presents to navigation, and those who cruise onto the river from the open Pacific should be well prepared for the adventure that crossing the bar can present.
During a flood tide and reasonably calm weather, experienced cruisers should have no serious problems crossing this infamous bar. The modern channel is broad and well marked.
Such was not always the case, however. The bar has claimed hundreds of vessels over the past two centuries, and more than 2,000 lives.
Heroic History
The first explorer known to cross the Columbia River Bar was Capt. Robert Gray, in May 1792. Gray made his way gingerly across the Columbia River Bar and sailed upriver to the present Tongue Point.
His exploration of the area was followed, in 1805, by a visit from Lewis and Clark, who completed their epic overland journey here and built Fort Clatsop, about six miles south of present-day Astoria.
Today, visitors can tour Fort Clatsop National Memorial and see a rustic replica of the fort, museum exhibits, a slide show about the journey and "living history" programs, in which rangers show how expedition members lived in 1806.
In 1811, after an arduous voyage from New York, a party organized by John Jacob Astor established a fur trading post on the southern bank of the Columbia. They named it Astoria.
The British took over in 1813, dominating the area for three decades. American pioneers arrived in the 1840s, then waves of immigrants from Europe followed, settling here.
Astoria became a prosperous seaport that was known for its culture, wild nightlife and Victorian mansions. Hundreds of 19th century homes still remain, the most famous of which is the Flavel mansion, now open to the public as a museum.
In the hills above Astoria, a 123 foot column emblazoned with colorful frieze work commemorates the events which led to the winning of the West and the settling of the town. Visitors to the Astoria Column, especially those who climb its 166 steps, will be rewarded by a panoramic vista of the hillside town, the Columbia Bar, the river and snow-capped volcanic peaks inland.
Visitors will also see a long, graceful bridge stretching 4.1 miles across the Columbia, linking Oregon and Washington. Until the bridge was built in the 1960s, traffic across the river depended on ferries. Today, the Astoria Bridge carries more than 1 million vehicles a year.
Near Fort Clatsop, south of Astoria, is the fascinating Fort Stevens Historic Area and Museum.
Originally built during the Civil War, this fort guarded the entrance to the Columbia. During World War II, it was actually fired upon by a Japanese submarine. Deactivated after the war, Fort Stevens is now open for tours, along with an on-site military museum.
Just south of Fort Stevens, its rusted shell partly buried in the sands, is the eerie wreck of a 278 foot ship. On October 25, 1906, the British sailing ship Peter Iredale ran aground on Clatsop Beach.
At low tide, visitors can still wander among the scant remains. At high water, sightseers watch from a distance and take photographs.
Just west of Ilwaco, across the river from Astoria, are the two oldest lighthouses on the Pacific Coast.
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse guards the entrance to the Columbia. When built, it proved to be invisible to ships approaching from the north, so North Head Lighthouse was constructed nearby. Both lighthouses can be reached on short hikes from the road.
The Lewis and Clark Interpretative Center at Fort Canby State Park offers a breathtaking view of the bar. Andlocated just below Cape Disappointment Lighthouse is the Coast Guard Station, one of the busiest on the coast. The famous National Motor Life Boat School is based here.
Unlike most rescue boats, motor lifeboats are designed to be self righting and functional after a capsize. The school's fame derives from the rigorous training Coast Guard boat crews get in the wild surf of Peacock Spit.
Exploring the Astoria Waterfront
Astoria has gone to a great deal of trouble to make its old waterfront attractive.
Once the district was notorious for saloons -- and bawdy houses with trap doors, down which drunken patrons were rolled to be shanghaied. Many an unwary citizen would wake up to find himself on an unplanned two-year sea voyage.
Today, commercial fish and lumber loading docks coexist with chic developments, such as Pier 11. Here, you will find a wide variety of trendy restaurants and shops.
For the nautically inclined, the district's most extraordinary attraction is the Columbia River Maritime Museum. It features superb displays of antique small boats, ship models, early engines, working submarine periscopes and the bridge of a Navy destroyer.
Docked outside and open for tours is the last working lightship, Columbia. Next to her is one of the huge buoys that have replaced most lightships.
While visiting the museum, boaters can tie up at the new 17th Street recreational dock, located at the inside of the ship pier.
Crossing the Columbia Bar
No West Coast bar is more deserving of its reputation than that of the Columbia. Peacock Spit, off the north jetty; and Clatsop Spit, to the south have been called the "Graveyard of the Pacific." But crossing the bar doesn't have to be traumatic. Timing is the key.
Crossing is safest during slack tide and is next best during the flood. Give any area of breakers a wide berth.
Peacock Spit is the most dangerous area, as heavy breakers can extend up to four miles offshore. If in doubt about entering, call the Coast Guard for a bar report.
In extreme conditions, it may be wise to continue along the coast or remain offshore until the tide turns. Keep in mind that it is difficult to accurately estimate the size of breakers from their backside.
Approaching cruisers should first make for the large navigational buoy "CR," located 5.5 miles southwest of the entrance. A series of buoys, daybeacons and lighted ranges marks the broad entrance channel.
Refer to NOAA Chart #18521 and identify each marker carefully. Beware of strong longshore currents and stay in the channel.
Your Choice of Marinas
Ilwaco is the closest port to the river entrance. With 1,000 berths, it's one of the largest small craft harbors in the Northwest . If you plan to do a lot of fishing, or have time for only a brief stopover, Ilwaco may be your best choice.
Carefully follow the three mile channel, dredged to 16 feet, which branches north from the Columbia River near Buoy 11. Harbor depths average 12 feet.
Contact the harbormaster on VHF channels 7, 16 or 69, monitored from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily during summer. You will probably be directed to the yellow guest dock.
It's wise to make reservations ahead of time during summer. The harbor can handle vessels to about 100 feet in length. Trailerboats up to 30 feet can be launched by a hoist for reasonable rates.
The fuel dock is next to the hoist, near the harbor entrance. Good anchorage is available outside the harbor, but inside the north jetty near Fort Canby.
Ilwaco offers all amenities, including showers (at the RV park), numerous cafes and restaurants, fish markets and gift shops. It's a short walk into town for groceries, a coin laundry or banking.
Englund Marine Supply chandlery is located right in the harbor. The city-operated Ilwaco boat yard, one of the few self-service yards left on the Columbia, has a 50 ton Travelift.
Astoria's mooring basins offer a more urban ambiance. Situated at the foot of the Astoria bridge, the West Basin is one of the most beautiful marinas anywhere.
It's enclosed on two sides by a Red Lion Inn and Sea Fare Restaurant. Six other restaurants are within a half mile. There's a convenience store across the street and a large supermarket is a half mile to the west.
A couple of miles upriver, East Basin -- used mainly by commercial fishing boats -- also has some transient slips. It does have restrooms and showers, but the only advantage I could see of berthing here is its close proximity to a large supermarket.
There's a good anchorage on mixed mud and sandy bottom near or just beyond the East Basin. Be sure you are outside the shipping channel.
On your approach to Astoria, call the harbormaster on Channel 16, monitored during business hours only. The working channel is 74.
The West Basin is dredged from 6 to 14 foot depths and can handle recreational boats to 100 feet in length. The fuel dock is located at the northeast corner of the marina. Pumpouts and oily waste dumps are available.
There's a free, single-lane launch ramp at the East Basin. A new parking lot is across the street. Another public launch ramp is located right next to Astoria Yacht Club.
If you need marine supplies or just want to browse, there are two large chandleries on the Astoria waterfront: Englund Marine Supply is a few blocks west of the maritime museum, and Astoria Marine Supply is a few blocks farther west at 12th Street.
It's nearly a 15 mile run from the Columbia Bar to Astoria. That's OK if you plan to stay a while, but transients without time to spare who want to be on the Oregon side might consider Hammond Mooring Basin or the City of Warrenton Marina.
Located about six miles closer to the entrance than Astoria, Hammond is a sleepy little port catering mostly to small boats and a few charter boats. There are restrooms and showers.
Its chief distinction is the presence of the area's largest-capacity launch ramp, with six lanes and lots of parking.
To enter the Hammond basin from the Columbia, look for the green "1" buoy a quarter mile south of the main channel, just southeast of the "25" green channel buoy.
Warrenton Marina is located at the end of the Skipanon Waterway a couple of miles east of Hammond. The entrance is right opposite (south of) "29" channel buoy.
Like Ilwaco, Warrenton Harbor is primarily a fishing port, with commercial loading facilities, charter boats and several hundred slips for private boats. Repair services and haulouts are available at the Warrenton Boat Yard.
If you are interested in staying over at either Hammond or Warrenton, call the harbormaster well in advance.
There's yet another alternative at Warrenton -- the friendly, private Skipanon Marina. The marina has slips to 50 feet, dredged to 6 feet, and can accept a limited number of deep draft sailboats to 85 feet on end ties. The clean showers are free. Call ahead by phone, as the staff does not monitor VHF radio.
No Fear
Many cruisers heading up or down the coast avoid entering the Columbia, either for lack of time or out of fear. The best times to enter are usually just when you'd like to be making good progress heading along the coast.
During summer, you are not likely to experience much difficulty entering or leaving the Columbia. Just check the weather before leaving port and try to time things so you don't arrive at the bar during the ebb.
If you pass this area by, you'll be missing one of the most interesting, scenic and historically significant cluster of ports on the entire coast.
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This article first appeared in the April 1, 1995 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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