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'Here' We Are
by Ed Lawrence
Elliott Bay has its own distinctive atmosphere and attractions
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Some cities are defined in a few, short words. Remember Alice B. Toklas' famous remark about Oakland, California, quoted by Gertrude Stein: "There's no 'there' there."
While Oakland residents would probably disagree, there's no disputing the fact that much of the city's attraction is its proximity to San Francisco -- and San Francisco Bay.
And many other cities are appealing primarily because they are "close to" another city's attractions.
By comparison, the boating population of Seattle -- a whopping 20 percent of its residents -- find that some of the city's best boating attractions are along the western edge of the city at Elliott Bay, a perfectly situated haven located blocks from Seattle Center and the 605-foot-tall Space Needle.
A jewel in the Emerald City -- in the shadow of imposing Mount Rainier, which seems close enough to touch -- Elliott Bay offers big city delights, the energy of a major shipping port and a bounty of gastronomic opportunities.
It is also the home of the original Skid Row -- a nickname for Yesler Way -- the street down which logs were once skidded en route to the Bay and nearby lumber mills.
For contemporary boaters, the focal point here is Elliott Bay Marina, a four-year-old facility where visitors and overnighters can find hotel-class service in a contemporary marina that offers an excellent base from which to launch trips ashore or to nearby island attractions. The marina has 60 guest slips for 32-63 foot pleasureboats.
General manager Martin Harder, a veteran of the hospitality industry, brings a philosophy of management that bears a striking resemblance to that embraced by five-star hotels.
Our mission is to beat the boater's expectations, Harder said. That begins at the moment of arrival, when "we try to meet every boater who comes in and help with the lines."
Once secured in a slip, boaters have two options: relaxing and taking advantage of a seemingly endless list of services available, or heading for the bright lights of the city, which are only minutes away. Taking a page from the hotel industry's book of success, the marina employs a full time concierge, who provides local knowledge and assists with dinner reservations and trip planning for those cruising the area.
Three restaurants, each offering different menus and ambiance, are just steps away from the slips.
Maggie Bluff's View Cafe is a great lunch or snack spot that offers microbrewery beer and televised sports events in a casual setting. Dinner to go is available at Sanmi Sushi, which offers a variety of oriental dishes. The bill of fare is more sophisticated at the Palisade Restaurant, which boasts fantastic views, an indoor salmon pond and tantalizing Northwest specialties cooked on a wood-fired rotisserie and served in an elegant dining room.
On an elemental level, the marina s other facilities are equally impressive. Showers, for example, are all tiled; and laundry facilities are first class. Locked gangways and a closely monitored security system dissuade uninvited visitors.
Additional services at the marina include a convenience store, a marine service facility, a canvas shop, a pumpout station, a fuel dock and boat rental facilities.
Owners and managers of Elliott Bay Marina also display an enviable attitude toward protection of the environment. Harder is especially proud of the marina's record on that count, which includes the 1995 National Marine Manufacturers Association Boating Facilities Environmental Responsibility Award.
"We want to do what is right -- and being environmentally sensitive is right," he said, describing methods of enhancing and protecting the environment that began the day excavation of the site began.
The marina was designed with the objective of not displacing marine habitat, so the shoreline was filled with 20 acres of cobblestone to prevent the harbor from being polluted by silt. Eelgrass and kelp were planted to enhance existing flora -- and water flows underneath the breakwater, allowing fish to migrate easily. The changes have converted the area to a feeding territory for small and medium-size fish.
More to See
For the adventurous, a five minute cab ride takes you along Alaskan Way to waterfront piers, the Seattle Aquarium, historic Pioneer Square and eateries that will tax the self control of even the most diet-conscious traveler.
A stop at Pike Place Public Market, an enormous farmer's market, is a must for galley gourmets who want to fill their lockers with the freshest fish and locally grown vegetables. An Italian deli beckons with the aroma of fresh salami, Parmesan cheese and Mediterranean salads, as well as bottles of vino tinto to accent a meal. The market is also a magnet for the shop-till-you-drop crowd, who can explore shops offering a diversity of wares ranging from Northwest Indian artifacts to talking birds.
The route along Alaskan Way is punctuated with shops built on piers, and often rewards visitors with the sight of Seattle Fire Department fireboats filling the skies with water while performing practice drills. Jugglers and mimes entertain strollers on the sidewalk, with a backdrop of a scenic harbor teeming with activity, as ferries shuttle passengers to nearby islands and to Victoria, British Columbia. There's even activity below the sidewalk, where underground tours offer a subsurface glimpse and historic perspective of life in the city during the 1800s.
Connoisseurs of nautical lore can sate their appetite by visiting Elliott Bay Books, which devotes an entire wall to boating publications. I also discovered that a studied approach to book buying offers rewards in several stores that feature used and one-of-a-kind collectable books.
Cruisers are faced with several choices when departing the marina. A turn to port presents the opportunity to cruise past miles of shoreline and commercial shipping yards. And Blake Island Marine State Park, which has room for 40 boats, is just five miles away (See Sea Magazine, February 1996).
A turn to starboard opens the gate to Puget Sound and destinations on nearby Bainbridge Island, or farther north to the Gulf Islands or Alaska.
Clearly, there is a "there" here.
Elliott Bay Marina can be reached on VHF Channel 78A, or by contacting the Harbormaster's Office, 2601 W. Marina Place, Seattle, WA 98199; (206) 285-4817.
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This article first appeared in the June 1, 1996 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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