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Bay Watch North
by John Lund and Marianne van Toor
Cowichan, Genoa and Maple bays offer three different boating experiences
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If there were an ocean equivalent of a highway connecting Sidney with Nanaimo and other northern B.C. ports, Sansum Narrows dividing Saltspring Island from Vancouver Island would be it. As with any other highway travel, often the fun comes from exploring the small towns and byways off the beaten path.
Next time you head north or south on Sansum Narrows, go on a “bay watch” and head into Cowichan, Genoa and Maple bays. Each promises a different boating experience, none of them related to “Baywatch,” the TV show. But you never know; you might spot actress Pamela Anderson, whose hometown is only a short distance north, in Ladysmith, B.C.
On this bay watch you will discover maritime history in the former fishing village of Cowichan Bay, a quiet outdoors combined with fine dining in secluded Genoa Bay and a well-run and popular rendezvous spot in Maple Bay. All of these towns are worth a visit, so turn off the main road for a change and enjoy the bay watch tour, northern-style.
Cowichan Bay
When headed north from Sidney or Saanich Inlet via Satellite Channel, veer westerly to enter Cowichan Bay south of Separation Point. Use Canadian Hydrographic Chart #3478. There are no real hazards here, other than the fact that it is an active lumber region; therefore, it is wise to keep an eye out for logs and deadheads. You may also come across the occasional freighter entering or leaving the bay.
Funky Cowichan Bay village is at the southwest corner of the bay and is worth a visit. There is a new breakwater dock installed in front of the public Cowichan Bay Fishermen’s Wharf, and eventually all the docks will be refurbished and reconfigured.
The public dock offers 940 feet of visitor moorage, from mid-June to mid-September, and services include water, 20 amp power, a garbage drop, new toilets and showers. There is no charge for a four-hour lunch or shopping stop. Overnight moorage rates start at 2 p.m. Call (250) 746-5911.
As charming as Cowichan Bay is for a day or an afternoon visit, we recommend that you head to nearby Genoa Bay Marina for the night.
When in Cowichan Bay
The waterfront village is an eclectic mix of old and new that the photographers and history buffs in the crew will love.
There are shops, galleries and several restaurants along the main road and, as a dining spot, Cowichan Bay has several nice restaurants starting with The Masthead at the head of the dock in the old Columbia Hotel (circa 1868). Also, there is the Bluenose Steak & Seafood House with a patio overlooking the bay with Mount Tzuhalem in the background. We had a tasty seafood lunch at the Rock Cod Café, overlooking the busy bay, and homemade local ice cream at The Udder Guy’s down the road.
You can also pick up some fresh-baked artisan loaves and buns at True Grain Bread and locally made cheese at Hilary’s Cheese & Deli and have a picnic lunch on board or at Hecate Park down the street.
The Maritime Centre is a “must visit” for anyone interested in boat building, historic inboard and outboard motors, model ships or local history. If you are in luck, a boat-building class will be under way and you can watch students building a lapstrake or cedar-strip small boat. The center is operated by the Cowichan Wooden Boat Society, which runs an annual Wooden Boat Festival.
Genoa Bay
Genoa Bay is one of those places boating destination writers almost hate to mention for fear of spoiling the tranquility of the place; however, we’ll take a chance and let you in on this out-of-the-way secret.
Enter Genoa Bay off the north side of Cowichan Bay, using charts 3478 and 3441. Keep the red triangular day buoy to starboard and the green can buoy to port. The marina is to port and answers VHF 66A from mid-May to Labor Day. There are about 30 guest slips or 1,200 feet of moorage available. Call (250) 746-7621, especially on busy summer weekends. If there is no room at the dock, anchorage is good over a mud bottom; however, the center of the bay is open to southeast winds.
The docks have 15 and 30 amp power and water. Ashore you will find new washrooms, showers and a laundry. There is a small general store and dock office at the head of the marina where moored customers can make arrangements for a free shuttle (the driver will gladly accept donations) to take you shopping, sightseeing in Chemainus or wine tasting at Cherry Point Vineyards, or drop you off at one of several good local golf courses.
When in Genoa Bay
There is blissfully little to do in Genoa Bay except enjoy the sun, relax, chat with neighbors, explore by dinghy or dine at The Genoa Bay Café - one of the best little restaurants anywhere. Perched above the marina, the café offers a fine selection of Pacific Rim cuisines and Chef Ben Kiedaisch uses local organic fare wherever he can. Dinner reservations are a must. Call (250) 746-7621.
On our latest visit we chatted with David Cox, of Sammamish, Washington, on his 61-foot Tollycraft Arriba, who was at Genoa Bay for the third time. According to Cox, “Genoa Bay is nice, quiet and laid back. The people are fun and friendly, and they always serve up a good steak dinner at the café.”
Maple Bay
Maple Bay is where sail racing began for this old deckhand cum writer when he was given the winch position on a classic Ten Meter sailboat during the Maple Bay Regatta, one of the region’s longest-running races that continues today through Maple Bay Yacht Club. It is a popular boating destination, and the marinas located on Bird’s Eye Cove on the bay’s southwestern end are regarded as the best-run full facilities in the region.
Maple Bay is entered from Sansum Narrows by heading west and then south once past landmark Paddy Mile Stone. To the east, 1,985-foot-high Mt. Maxwell on Saltspring Island makes a lovely backdrop for this splendid boating destination. While there is a small public dock at the head of Maple Bay, the main moorage area is in Bird’s Eye Cove. The first docks you see belong to Maple Bay Yacht Club, which offers visitor moorage to reciprocal clubs.
Bird’s Eye Cove Marina - Limited guest moorage is available at Bird’s Eye Cove Marina, at the southern end of Maple Bay; look for the mural on the building. Call (250) 746-5686 to check availability.
Cove Yachts next to the marina has a 100-ton marine railway and a 15-ton Travelift and can handle just about any kind of marine repairs. Call (250) 748-8136.
Maple Bay Marina - At the south end of Bird’s Eye Cove is Maple Bay Marina; steer toward the blue roof of the gas dock. The harbormaster monitors VHF 66A. Check in for a slip assignment. Reservations are suggested; call (250) 746-8482.
The docks have 15 and 30 amp power, and water. Ashore you will find washrooms, showers and a laundry, garbage disposal and recycling, plus business services such as fax, photocopying and postage. The fuel dock supplies gas, diesel, propane and CNG, and is also the terminus for several floatplanes.
Bob and Margaret Anderson, of Port Orchard, Washington, on their 32-foot Island Gypsy Messin’ Around, have visited Maple Bay Marina for 10 years in a row and said, “The marina is nice, quiet, and the people are really super.”
The marina is set in a well-protected harbor surrounded by tree-covered hills, and the property is kept immaculately. The Quarterdeck tent is a great place for yacht club gatherings and for breakfast, served from 7 to 10 a.m. daily.
Reasonably priced dinners and drinks are served on the glassed-in patio above the marina at the Shipyard Restaurant & Pub. The pub can get quite lively on summer evenings.
It might not be as exciting as watching “Baywatch” star Pamela Anderson running down a sandy California beach to save yet another drowning soul, but we think you will find “bay watch north” just as lovely. Besides, it’s a detour off the main path the whole family can enjoy.
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This article first appeared in the June 1, 2008 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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