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Twins in the Peaks
by John Lund
Port Angeles and John Wayne Marina offer respite, grand views of Olympic Mountains
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The steep, rugged Olympic Mountains stand almost 8,000 feet above the Strait of Juan de Fuca on Washington state’s Olympic Peninsula. Besides forming one of the most dramatic approaches of any waterway on Earth, the Olympics are more than a Pacific Northwest icon -- they actually play a role in defining the region through the weather patterns they create and the resulting effect they have on people and the outdoor culture.
Boaters traveling east or west on the Strait of Juan de Fuca are directly affected and should be conversant onthe funnel effect the Olympic Mountain range has on the flow of warm air during the summer months. Summer winds are predominantly westerly on the strait, building strength during the afternoon. If you find yourself mid-strait with a 30-knot westerly wind and an outflowing ebb current, conditions can be quite uncomfortable. (For details, see the book “The Wind Came All Ways” by Owen S. Lange.)
For times like this -- when you might need to duck in a little earlier than expected -- the Port of Port Angeles operates two convenient marinas boaters should know about: Port Angeles Boat Haven and John Wayne Marina, both located on the Olympic Peninsula’s north coast.
Even when passage on the strait is calm, both Port Angeles and John Wayne Marina on Sequim Bay are fine destinations. After all, more than 4 million visitors a year pass through Port Angeles on the way to the Olympic National Park and the Olympic Peninsula.
Your Arrival
Finding Port Angeles, located 17 miles south of Victoria, B.C., is simple, but using NOAA charts 18465 and 18468 will make navigation even easier. Port Angeles Harbor is located behind 3-1/2-mile-long Ediz Hook, which is home to a U.S. Coast Guard station with a rescue helicopter pad, an airstrip and hangars, rescue boats and communications towers.
A flashing red marker buoy (No. 2) indicates the spit’s eastern extremity and makes entering at night straightforward. During daylight hours, you will likely see the Coho and Victoria Express ferries that operate between Victoria and Port Angeles. Stay at least 100 yards away from any passenger ferry. Since September 11, 2001, the Coast Guard presence here has been stepped up considerably and its response boats escort ferries in and out of the harbor.
Port Angeles is a popular U.S. Customs Port of Entry and can get busy during the summer. Call Customs and Immigration at (360) 457-4311 or Port Angeles Boat Haven dock office at (360) 457-1221 a minimum of one hour before landing. The 24-hour customs number is (800) 562-5943.
Port of Port Angeles
Two marinas for recreational boaters lie inside Ediz Hook, which forms the deepest natural harbor north of San Francisco. The Port of Port Angeles operates the breakwater-protected Boat Haven, located on the south shore of the harbor. The City Pier, located east of the ferry landing in town, is operated by Port Angeles Parks & Recreation.
The City Pier
The City Pier has an identifiable 50-foot observation deck and makes an easy Port Angeles stop if you wish to do a quick provisioning or have lunch or dinner downtown. The pier can handle boats up to 40 feet, but there is a 24-hour limit and it has no power or water hookups. Moorage is available from April to October when the wharves are removed for the winter.
The pier is part of the 2-acre Municipal Park, which has a maritime museum, the Arthur D. Feiro Marine Laboratory (a working lab open to the public), a sandy beach, landscaped grounds and an elegant bronze sculpture of cormorants overlooking the walkway. Two exceptional historical murals by artist Cory Ench grace the Marine Center walls.
Near the park at 121 E. Railroad Ave., next to the ferry dock, is the Port Angeles Visitor Information Center, where you can pick up handy maps and tourist brochures.
Port Angeles Boat Haven
For a longer stay, boaters can head west to the Port Angeles Boat Haven, a full-service marina that has water, 20-amp power, restrooms, showers, a laundry and a pumpout station. Yachts up to 120 feet can be accommodated on F dock, which has 700 feet of visitor space. Close to the marina are restaurants, marine services, chandleries and a boat yard. The fuel station is located to port inside the marina breakwater entrance. To check moorage availability, call (360) 457-4505.
Stuff to Do
Downtown Port Angeles is within walking distance from either marina, but a $2 day pass on the Clallam Transit System will take you anywhere in Clallam County. In town, you’ll find interesting clothing, outdoor and sporting goods shops, bookstores, boutiques and art galleries.
We enjoy exploring “PA’s” downtown streets, with their hanging baskets and boxes overflowing with flowers. Some of the town’s vintage buildings have been restored and painted with colorful murals depicting Port Angeles’ history. Sculptures, some with a nautical theme, can be found here and there.
When you get hungry, you won’t have any trouble finding a restaurant to suit your taste -- but if you like spicy Asian food, our pick is Thai Peppers on North Lincoln. If seafood gets you going, then CrabHouse, also on North Lincoln, is the place.
Howdy
Approximately 18 miles east along the coast from Port Angeles in Sequim Bay is the Port of Port Angeles’ second facility, John Wayne Marina. This cozy spot is one of our favorites in the region.
Sequim, meaning “quiet water” in Salish, is totally protected by two overlapping spits of land. Popular film star John Wayne had a home on the bay’s western shore and he anchored his famous Wild Goose, a 136-foot converted minesweeper, here. Duke thought the site would make an ideal marina, and after his death, his dream came true when his family donated 22 acres of land with the understanding that a marina be built on the site. It opened in 1985 under the direction of the Port of Port Angeles.
From the Strait of Juan de Fuca, enter Sequim Bay by keeping the buoy off Gibson Spit to starboard and Travis Spit to port. Continue to follow the marked channel as it bends around Kiapot Point. The average depth is 9 feet; keep the N buoys to starboard and the C buoys to port.
To proceed to the marina on Pitship Point, take the west passage past the shoal found at the entrance to the bay. Studying chart 18471 will assist you.
John Wayne Marina’s 22 visitor slips -- including 200 feet of dock -- are assigned on a first-come first-served basis. Call (360) 417-3440 to check availability. Services include 30-amp power, water, restrooms, showers, a laundry, a pumpout, a Porta Potti dump, launch ramps and a fuel station.
Within the marina you will find a restaurant, a grocery store and Bosun’s Locker, a shop with marine supplies, charts, books and gifts. Check out the showcase of John Wayne memorabilia on the main floor, including a statue of the Duke from his role in the movie “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon.”
Sequim
As Sequim is located beneath the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, it gets a mere 16 inches of precipitation a year. In comparison, the average rainfall at the Hoh River Valley on the western side of the Olympic National Park receives an amazing 133 inches a year. Sequim’s arid climate makes it a popular retirement, recreation and tourist area.
Within an easy cab ride from John Wayne Marina are two excellent golf courses, SunLand and Dungeness Golf & Country Club. Two miles east of the marina is the 7 Cedars Casino complex, featuring a buffet, a gift shop and an art gallery, plus live shows, entertainment and, of course, slot machines. Call (360) 683-7777 to arrange a shuttle ride from the marina.
On the western shore of Sequim Bay is the 92-acre Sequim Bay State Park, with campsites, picnic areas, restrooms, showers, RV sites and a two-lane boat launch. Some moorage can be found at the floats and the mooring buoys. The shores of Sequim Bay are ideal for clamming, birdwatching, bicycling and hiking.
Getting Familiar
To truly get a feel for the region, its people and their outdoor ethic, we feel it is important to get to know the Olympic Mountains firsthand. At the very least, we encourage you to venture up to the World Heritage Site, Hurricane Ridge, located 17 miles from Port Angeles. Once there you can hike trails surrounded by wildflowers and have a real chance of spotting marmots, deer, mountain goats and even black bears, all the while surrounded by snow- and glacier-capped mountain peaks. The outstanding views run to Port Angeles, Sequim and as far away as Victoria on Vancouver Island.
If it is just you and a crewmate or two, the easiest way to Hurricane Ridge is to hop on the daily Royal Tours bus that departs the Port Angeles ferry dock at 1 p.m. In Port Angeles or Sequim, call (360) 417-8006 for information.
If you have a larger group (up to 12 people), we recommend that you call Will Nelson at All Points Charter & Tours at (360) 460-7131. Nelson is a wildlife biologist and a tour operator who can fill your day with trips all along the north coast of the Olympic Peninsula. Check his Web page at www.goallpoints.com for details.
Having made the trip to the Olympic Mountains, you will have a better understanding of how a mountain range can affect boating and Northwest life in general; it will also give you an Olympic memory you won’t soon forget.
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This article first appeared in the August 1, 2006 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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